Patek Philippe Pulsomax Ref. 5450

in Patek Philippe | Sunday, September 28. 2008

Patek Philippe Pulsomax Ref. 5450This year Patek Philippe has unveiled the Pulsomax Ref. 5450, a new annual calendar watch. This limited edition of 300 platinum watch includes the newest technological development from Patek, the Pulsomax® escapement. It features a trilogy of Silinvar® components which provide a greater degree of accuracy and precision. Because Silinvar® is made from the chemical compound silicon dioxide, also known as silica, it is anti-magnetic and therefore is immune to magnetic influence which has caused disturbances in precision time keeping with steel components. In addition it has 1/3 the mass of steel and it is highly resistant to corrosion. With the combination of Silinvar® against Silinvar® the movement does require lubrication because of the low amount of friction created. All of these advancements means the time between required servicing of the watch is greatly increased. Over the past few years Patek Philippe has been changing the world of mechanical watches, and showing their superiority over other manufacturers with their bold new ideas and technology. The Pulsomax® is bringing watchmaking to a whole new level in the 21st century.

What is a Grand Complication Wristwatch?

in Learn | Saturday, September 27. 2008

There has yet to be an official definition of what classifies a timepiece as a Grand Complication, there is however an understanding among watchmakers and watch connoisseur alike that a watch must meet certain guidelines to acquire this grand title. One could be safe to assume that a Grand Complication timepiece will always contains at least three complications, and one of those will undoubtedly be a Perpetual Calendar, a Tourbillon, or the Minute Repeater.

The first of these complications, the perpetual calendar, is a mechanism that automatically takes into account the varying number of days in each month as well as leap years - many also contain a moonphase function. Most often, the perpetual calendar is based on the Gregorian calendar which does not need to be corrected for more then a century. The second complication in the "Grand" category is the tourbillon, which was invented to reduce the debilitating effects of gravity on watches, which ultimately lead to inaccurate timekeeping. With a tourbillon, the negative effects of gravity ultimate cancel themselves out. Lastly, the minute repeater is a device that the current time is announced by means of a combination of sounds that represent the hour, quarter hour, and minute. It is arguably the most difficult to construct, and no two sound exactly alike.

Patek 5004GA supreme test of a designer's expertise and watchmakers skill is the creation of a Complicated watch. IWC was the first to create a Grand Complication in a pocket watch, it was introduced in 1890 with more than 1300 mechanical parts. 100 years later, they made history again when the created the IWC Grand Complication Wristwatch - a watch still in production today with a limited release of just 50 pieces a year. Patek Philippe has built some of the world's finest examples of complicated timepieces. One recent example, Patek Philippe Reference # 5004 is a split seconds chronograph that is the most complicated model in Patek Philippe's line of stopwatches.

Franck Muller AETERNITAS MEGAEach year Franck Muller presents a super-complication at the World Presentation of Haute Horlogerie (WPHH) held at a chateau in Genthod, located on the outskirts of Geneva. In 2006 Franck Muller amazed watch experts and collectors from around the world with the unveiling of its "everlasting timepiece" the Aeternitas, a watch that would run 1000 years without correction. This year brings 4 new versions of the Aeternitas Mega which for the first time include a Grande and Petite Sonnerie (Grande-strike) Minute Repeater, Westminster Carillon.

One may ask, why would we care if our watch has a 1000 year calendar? But this is no small accomplishment, and its one that has been appreciated by enthusiasts of complicated movements. The eternal calendar, not to be confused with the traditional perpetual calendar, follows a cycle of 1,000 years thanks to two additional sets of wheels. Franck Muller's eternal calendar is different from any traditional perpetual calendar because it takes into account the rule governing the Gregorian calendar stating that all century years not divisible by 400 are common years and not leap years.

The Aeternitas Mega 1 has the addition of a Grande and Petite Sonnerie Minute Repeater, Westminster Carillon. The movement is equipped with a double barrel which work to guarantee a power reserve of 4 days and provide energy for the Sonnerie. The Grande Sonnerie (Grand-strike) strikes the hours and the quarters automatically that chimes the same notes as the clock tower of the Westminster cathedral. The Petite Sonnerie only strikes the hours and the quarters.

The Aeternitas Mega 2 incorporates a Split-seconds Chronograph with a 30-minutes counter placed at 3 o’clock and an hour counter placed in a retrograde sector. While the Aeternitas Mega 3 has an eternal calendar module placed on the dial side which indicates the day, the date, the month and the moon phases and requires no manual intervention. The grand finale, the Aeternitas Mega 4, incorporates all the aforementioned complications from first three versions into one stunning watch.

Maitres du Temps - Chapter One

in New Releases | Sunday, September 7. 2008

Maîtres du Temps Chapter OneMaitres du Temps is a new brand launched in Geneva earlier this year by industry veteran Steven Holtzman. The brand is unique in that it assembles small teams of independent master watchmakers to create "exclusive and unparalleled masterpieces." The first watch, appropriately named Chapter One, is a stunningly beautiful watch created by Mr. Christophe Claret, Mr. Roger Dubuis, and Mr. Peter Speake-Marin. The watch is fantastic start to what's sure to be a long successful history for the company.

Maîtres du Temps Chapter OneSteven Holtzman, the brands founder, began working in the field of horology over twenty-five years ago when he sold and distributed watches in the United States. In 1997 he created Helvetia Time Corporation (HTC) to distribute high-quality Swiss watch brands, including Roger Dubuis and Jean Dunand. Helvetia Time Corporation became one of the few high-end, independent watch distributors in North America. Now with the creation of Maitres du Temps he is raising the bar for watchmakers everywhere.

Maîtres du Temps Chapter OneThe Chapter One timepiece, was indeed a collaboration of giants in the watch industry. Each of the master watchmakers brings their unique strengths and expertise to the development of the timepiece. It is a world-first combination of complications crafted from 558 components. It is the first wristwatch to feature a tourbillon with mono-pusher column wheel chronograph, retrograde date, and retrograde GMT, as well as moon phase and day of the week on their own rolling bars. The two rollers work simultaneously with the time, date, GMT, and chronograph. The 18K red gold case is a large 62.60 mm x 45.90 mm and has a sapphire crystal with double anti-reflective coating. The watch comes on an alligator strap with 18K red gold deployant buckle.

Bell & Ross BR Instrument Grand Minuteur

in Bell & Ross | Monday, September 1. 2008

Bell and Ross Grand MinuteurBell & Ross has had great success in its 16 years as a company, but its biggest success has been with their Instrument watches launched in 2005. This year Bell & Ross introduced the BR Instrument Grand Minuteur, a 10-hour monopusher chronograph with flyback. The Grand Minuteur features one of a kind functions, an hour counter connected to a large counter, a timer that measures short times and an additional flyback function that launches a new measurement almost immediately. The dial was created with pilots in mind, with the large flyback chronograph display for easy readability. The extra-large case is 44mm x 50mm but is kept relatively light by using an angled rib structure and a Diamond Like Carbon finishing coat.

Bell and Ross Minuteur TourbillonA tourbillon version of the Minuteur was also released this year. The BR Instrument Minuteur Tourbillon has a very similar design to the Grand Minuteur, but the chronograph and the time display have been switched and the power reserve and small seconds hand have been moved so the tourbillon would fit on the dial. The case is the same extra large diameter but is made from satin-polished pink gold. Both watches are water resistant to 100 meters and are available on either an alligator or a rubber straps.

Recent Entries