Patek Philippe Triple Complication Ref. 5208P

Patek Philippe offers a greater range of minute repeater wristwatches in a broader palette of colors than all other watchmakers combined. It’s no wonder why knowledgeable enthusiasts with an affection for Patek Philippe’s creations keep coming back for more.

This year’s arrival brings together three major complications. Presented simply as a triple complication, the Ref. 5208P, launched at Baselworld 2011. Self-winding Grand Complication wristwatch with minute repeater, monopusher chronograph, instantaneous perpetual calendar with apertures, and moon phase.

The new Patek Philippe Triple Complication Ref. 5208P is yet another accomplishment that underscores the leadership of the Geneva-based workshops in the complicated watch segment. With a minute repeater, monopusher chronograph, and instantaneous perpetual calendar, it presents the most challenging degrees of difficulty with peerless perfection.

It is Patek Philippe's second Triple Complication within a short period of time. In 2008, the first was the Ref. 5207 with a minute repeater, instantaneous perpetual calendar with aperture displays, and tourbillon; in 2011, the second is the Ref. 5208P with a chronograph, minute repeater, and instantaneous calendar with aperture displays. Eagerly awaited by collectors and fans of complicated watches, it is the manufacture’s first Triple Complication with a chronograph.

Moreover, the new Ref. 5208P is one of the very few existing highly complicated watches with a self-winding movement. Finally, it is the first true Grand Complication that integrates silicon-derived Silinvar® components: the revolutionary Pulsomax® escapement and the Spiromax® balance spring. As such, it is an impressive example of how tradition and innovation interact under one roof at Patek Philippe.

In the current collection of Patek Philippe’s Grand Complication wristwatches, the Ref. 5208P ranks second, directly behind the Sky Moon Tourbillon, and before the Ref. 5207 (minute repeater, tourbillon, perpetual calendar with aperture displays) and the Ref. 5216 (minute repeater, tourbillon, perpetual calendar with retrograde date).

Movement Caliber R CH 27 PS QI
Self-winding mechanical movement, minute repeater and subsidiary seconds. Monopusher chronograph with column wheel, chronograph hand, 60-minute and 12-hour counters. Instantaneous perpetual calendar. Day, date, month, and leap-year cycle in apertures, day/night indicator, moon phases.
Overall diameter: 32 mm (repeater and chronograph 28 mm; instantaneous perpetual calendar 32 mm)
Height: 10.35 mm
Number of parts: 701
Basic movement with minute repeater: 331
Chronograph mechanism: 160
Instantaneous perpetual calendar: 210
Number of jewels: 58
Power reserve: Max. 48 hours
Balance: Gyromax®
Semi-oscillations per hour: 21,600 (3 Hz)
Balance spring: Spiromax®
Escapement: Pulsomax® (lever and escape wheel in Silinvar®)
Balance spring stud: Adjustable
Functions: Two-position crown at 3 o’clock
– Pulled out: To set the time
– Pushed in: To wind the watch
Pusher: Three-phase chronograph monopusher at 2 o’clock: Start, stop, reset
Hallmark: Patek Philippe Seal
Displays: Hours and minutes from the center
Sweep chronograph hand
Subdials at:
– 60-minute counter between 3 and 4 o'clock
– 12-hour counter between 8 and 9 o'clock
– Subsidiary seconds at 6 o'clock
Apertures:
Day between 10 and 11 o'clock in a polished white-gold frame
Date at 12 o'clock in a polished white-gold frame
Month between 1 and 2 o'clock in a polished white-gold frame
Moon phase at 6 o’clock
Day/night indication between 7 and 8 o'clock
Leap year cycle between 4 and 5 o'clock
Corrector push pieces: – Day corrector between 11 and 12 o'clock
– Month corrector between 12 and 1 o'clock
– Moon-phase corrector between 5 and 6 o'clock
– Date corrector between 6 and 7 o'clock
Delivered with correction stylus in ebony and 18K white gold
Slide Minute repeater with strike on low-pitched gong for hours, high/low for quarter-hours, and high for minutes.

Features
Case: 950 platinum with pieced lugs, platinum back, and interchangeable display back with sapphire-crystal window. Diamond of approx. 0.02 ct.
between the lugs at 6 o'clock
Dimensions: Diameter 44 mm
Height: 15.70 mm
Width between lugs: 22 mm
Slide: In 950 platinum on the left side of the case to activate the minute repeater
Dial: 18K gold, sunburst charcoal
11 applied "obus" hour markers in 18K white gold
Dauphine hands in 18K white gold for hours and minutes
Baton-style counterbalanced chronograph hands, 18K white gold, white lacquered
Baton-style hands for subsidiary seconds as well as 12-hour and 60-minute counters, 18K white gold, white lacquered
Railway track scale on dial periphery
18K white-gold frame for date aperture, hammered and diamondpolished 18K white-gold frames for day and month apertures, hammered and polished
Strap: Alligator leather with square scales, hand-stitched, shiny chocolate brown, platinum foldover clasp

Hublot Oceanographic 4000 - Titanium and All-Black Versions

After 18 months of research and testing Hublot has unveiled the first diver’s watch built to withstand the pressure at a depth of 4,000 meters. The watch was designed and constructed in association with the Oceanographic Museum of Monaco, a first for the museum. On June 6 the Hublot Oceanographic 4000 was unveiled in the main aquarium in Monaco, with both HSH Prince Albert II of Monaco and Jean-Claude Biver, CEO of Hublot in attendance. The partnership will kick off at the “DEEP SEA Conference” on October 13 of this year at the Oceanographic Institute of Paris, where Hublot will be the main partner.

The large “King Power” case measures 48 millimeters in diameter and is available in both a micorblasted satin-finished titanium and matte carbon fiber. The titanium version is limited to 1000 pieces, while the carbon fiber is limited to just 500 pieces. The dial is protected with a sapphire crystal with anti-reflective treatment, while the case-back is made from microblasted satin-finished titanium or microblasted satin-finished titanium with black PVD. The watch has been certified to 400 ATM or 4,000 meters an tested to 5,000 meters according to the NIHS standards.

The reference numbers 731.NX.1190.RX and 731.QX.1140.RX are powerd by the HUB1401 mechanical movement with automatic winding. Made up of 180 parts and 23 jewels the movement allows for a 42 hour power reserve. The watch is completed with a either a black rubber or rubber and nylon strap with tongue and buckle closing system in titanium or black DVD titanium. The titanium version has a retail price of $19,900 and the carbon fiber version is $25,900.

IWC Big Pilot Orange Perpetual Calendar Boutique Edition

A new limited edition boutique timepiece is on the horizon for IWC, the Big Pilot Perpetual Calendar in Orange. One year since the brand introduced their first IWC Big Pilot Perpetual Calendar watch, created for the Swiss-based Bucherer network of luxury boutiques, they are doing it again - but this time with a bit of orange thrown in the mix. The previous limited edition had only 100 pieces created, 70 in stainless steel and 30 in gold. The new "orange" edition will be produced in a slightly larger run of 250 and (its believed) only in stainless steel.

The Big Pilot Orange Perpetual Calendar has a 46 millimeter round stainless steel case and a stainless steel bezel. The timepiece is powered by movement Caliber 51613 with an automatic Pellaton winding system, 62 jewels, and beats at 21,600 vph. The movement allows for a power reserve of 168 hours or 7 days, shown by an indicator at the 3 o'clock position. Along with hours, minutes and seconds the watch displays day, date, day of week, month, four digit year and moon phase. The black dial is accented by large orange and small white markers. The case is secured to the wearers wrist by a black alligator strap with complimentary orange stitching.

Audemars Piguet Jules Audemars Moon-Phase Calendar

The Jules Audemars collection pays tribute to one of the founders of Audemars Piguet, Jules Audemars. The collections simplicity and elegance are well represented in the newest 2011 edition to the line, the Jules Audemars Moon-Phase Calendar watch reference # 26385OR.OO.A088CR.01. This new timepiece has an elegant 39 millimeter x 8.8 millimeter thick round case crafted from 18 carat pink gold with a smooth polished bezel. The silver-toned dial is decorated with applied pink gold hour-markers and pink gold hour and minute hands. Pink gold hands also indicate the day sub-dial located at the 3 o'clock position and the day of-the-week sub-dial at 9 o'clock. The beautiful moon-phase window is located above the 6 o'clock.

The Audemars Piguet Jules Audemars Moon-Phase Calendar timepiece is powered by the self-winding caliber 2324/2825 movement. The movement measures 26.60 millimeters (11_ lignes) in diameter, with a casing diameter of 26 millimeter by 4.60 millimeter thick. The movement contains 45 jewels and 215 parts and boasts a power reserve of up to 40 hours. All parts are finished and decorated by hand, the main-plate is beveled and circular-grained and the bridges are adorned with Côtes de Genève motif.

The watch is secured to the wearers wrist by a hand-sewn brown crocodile leather with large square scales and a pin buckle crafted in 18 carat pink gold.

The Cartier Tourbillon and Crocodile Watch, Calibre 9458 MC

Cartier has introduced a new flying tourbillon watch, the Cartier Tourbillon and Crocodile Watch. The timepiece is a truly unique design that features a stunning crocodile sculpted from 18 carat white gold and decorated with diamonds, the crocodile also has emerald eyes. The decorated reptile wraps its self around the top half of the dial and guards the movement. The bottom half of the dial is decorated with two water lilies in translucent red and white enamel. The watch features a round 44.5 millimeter case crafted from rhodium-plated 18 carat white gold. The crown is also crafted from circular-grained pattern rhodium-plated 18 carat white gold and is set with a diamond.

The Crocodile Watch is powered by the unique in-house flying tourbillon movement caliber 9458 MC which is imprinted with the Geneva Seal. The mechanical manual-winding movement features 167 parts which including 19 jewels. The movement beats at a frequency of 21,600 vibrations/hour, and has a power reserve of up to 50-hours. The C-shaped carriage of the flying tourbillon is also used for indicating the seconds. The intricate movement took the master watchmakers more than 50 hours to complete.

The superb case construction allows for a 30 meter water-resistance. The timepiece is completed with a black brushed canvas strap with an ardillon buckle in the white gold and is also decorated with diamonds. The Cartier Tourbillon and Crocodile Geneva Seal watch, caliber 9458 MC is a limited edition watch of 50 just pieces.

Omega Relaunches the Ladymatic

Luxury timepiece maker Omega has recently re-introduced its Ladymatic collection of watches. The line was originally launched back in 1955 as part of the brands De Ville collection. The Ladymatic was one of Omega's first self-winding watches that was designed especially for women, and it featured the smallest automatic movement the brand had ever made. The launch celebration was held at the Ritz-Carlton Hotel in Beijing and was attending by the Oscar-winning actress and brand ambassador, Nicole Kidman.

The Omega De Ville Ladymatic timepiece has a round 34 millimeter wave pattern case crafted in 18 carat red gold, yellow gold or stainless steel with a polished or a snow-set diamond-studded bezel. The polished screw-in crown is encrusted with an Omega Cut diamond or a polished Omega logo on the non-diamond version. The case-back is polished and fitted with a see-through case-back crafted from sapphire crystal, displaying the stunning movement. The dial is available in extra-white mother-of-pearl or lacquered black, each with a Supernova pattern. The dial features either 11 diamond indexes facetted in 18 carat gold mounts or a version with no hour-markers.

The timepiece is powered by the brands calibre 8520/8521 movement which incorporates a Co-Axial escapement. This caliber features the company’s exclusive Si 14 silicon balance spring which increases the level of its resistance to external shocks and environmental disturbances. The movement powers 4 functions, hours, minutes, seconds, and date. The hours, minutes and seconds are indicated by polished alpha-shaped hands treated with Super-LumiNova for heightened readability. The date indication is located in an exhibition window at 3 o’clock. An impressive 27 variations will be available.

Franc Vila FVa8Ch Bicentenario Sergio Perez Watch

Franc Vila has announced their official sponsorship of young Mexican F1 diver, Sergio Perez, and has released the Franc Vila FVa8Ch Bicentenario Sergio Perez watch to mark the new partnership. This new watch will be giving the official timepiece maker of the compatition, Hublot, some steep compition at the next F1 event. The watch is also a celebration of the 200 year anniversary of Mexican independence, this can be seen in the watches design which incorporates the colors from the Mexican flag into the design. The watch is a limited edition of just 28 pieces.

The new Franc Vila watch is powered by the automatic manually-finished movement, Caliber FV8Ch. The complicated movement functions include hours, minutes and seconds as well chronograph functions and a "big date" calendar presented in a double window below 12 o'clock. The chronograph minutes can be found at 6 o’clock, chronograph hours at 9 o’clock, and small seconds at 3 o’clock. The FVa8Ch Bicentenario Sergio Perez allows for a power-reserve of up to 42 hours.

The case is crafted from stainless steel and features the “Esprit Unique” shape with an elliptic bezel. The dial and case-back are protected with a sapphire crystal treated with a double anti-glare treatment. The dial is made from white kevlar and hs a guilloche pattern. The Franc Vila FVa8Ch Bicentenario Sergio Perez watch is completed with a black or white crocodile leather strap with red and green stitching and a steel deployant buckle. The watch has a 100-meter water-resistance.

Harry Winston Opus 10

Harry Winston launched The Opus Series in 2001 each year since they have partnered with the industry’s best watch makers to create a new Opus that is both groundbreaking and beautiful. This year Harry Winston has partnered with watch engineer Jean-François Mojon and the collaboration brought about the OPUS 10. A timepiece inspired by planetary movements and the space-time continuum the watch uses shapes and the dimensionality of time through the synchronous rotation of circular motions.

The Opus 10 strays from tradition with its innovative system of rotating indicators mounted on a revolving frame. The revolving frame rotates in one direction while the dials of each indicator turn in the opposite direction, this ensures that the orientation remains constant in any position. The hand-wound mechanical movement includes indicators for hours, minutes, seconds, and secondary time-zone, all set on the individual satellite wheels which orbit around the central, solar wheel. The movement allows for a 72-hour power reserve.

The watch features a 46 millimeter case constructed from white gold and is designed without a bezel. The rounded sapphire crystal is attached directly to case. The case-back is marked with both Harry Winston's and watch engineer Jean-François Mojon's names. The reference 500/MMJFMWL.K is completed with a black alligator strap and an 18 carat white gold buckle. The Harry Winston Opus 10 is a limited edition of jut 100 pieces.

Concord C1 Vintage Chronograph Blue PVD Watch

It may seem a bit abnormal to give such an expensive watch a faded and aged appearance, but I think it works quite well for the watch. With its stunning blue pvd case and its cutting-edge technology the Concord C1 Vintage Chronograph watch is a very beautiful and interesting looking watch. The vintage look of the C1 chronograph is both sporty and classic using a unique “worn” blue PVD case and distressed leather strap. The watch retails for $13,900.

The C1 case is constructed from stainless steel and then treated with a blue PVD coating. The case measures 44 millimeters in diameter by 16.70 millimeters thick and features a bezel with 8 black rubber protectors. The dial is a complex design with multiple layers and contains both black carbon fiber and galvanic blue elements. The indexes and hour-minutes hands have been treated with superluminova coating for better visibility in low light situations. The chronograph counters are located at 6 and 12 o’clock with the date opening at 3 o’clock and small second on rotating disk. The dial is protected by a 3.3 millimeters thick sapphire crystal with anti-reflective treatment applied on both sides.

The C1 Vintage Chronograph is powered by the Cosc certified mechanical automatic movement, Valgranges, which beats at 28′800 vibrations per hour and contains 25 jewels. The movement includes for hours, minutes, seconds, date and chronograph functions and a 48-hour power reserve. The open case-back is secured with 8 screws, the superior case construction assures a water resistance of up to 200 meters. The watch is secured to the wearers wrist with a vintage blue leather strap and black PVD-treated stainless steel Concord deployment buckle.

Corum Admiral's Cup Chronograph 44 Centro Mono-Pusher

In addition to the Admiral's Cup Chronograph 48 Grand Prix Watch released in celebration of the 50th anniversary of Corum’s Admiral’s Cup collection is the Admiral’s Cup Chronograph 44 Centro Mono-pusher. The mono-pusher chronograph complication is the star of the watch, and much less common than the conventional twin-pusher chronograph. The single pusher is used to stop, start and reset the chronograph. The reference 961.101.94/0371 is limited to just 555 numbered pieces.

The watch features a 44 millimeter case with the standard Admiral Cup shape with twelve sides sculptured from grade 5 titanium treated with a resistant matt black PVD coating. The case material is known for being extremely light yet durable with an outstanding hardness of 1300 Vickers. The bezel is also treated with black PVD coating. The dark grey and black dial has a central area decorated with a Cotes de Geneve pattern. The hour markers are around the inner bezel ring feature the traditional lacquered nautical pennants. The dial also has several small red accents on the triangle indicating the date, the minute-circle index and the chronograph minute hand. The dial is protected by a cambered twelve-sided sapphire crystal with anti-reflective coating.

The Corum Admiral's Cup Chronograph 44 Centro Mono-Pusher timepiece is powered by the brand’s exclusive mechanical self-winding CO961 Caliber movement. The movement includes 27 jewels, oscillating at 28,800 vibrations per hour, with its black PVD-coated oscillating weight, may be admired via the sapphire crystal case-back. The precision and reliability of the movement is guaranteed by the COSC chronometer-certification. The movement offers a 48-hour power-reserve and is waterproof to 100 meters.

Franc Vila FVa35 SuperSonico 5-­Minute Repeater SuperLigero Watch

FRANC VILA has unveiled a new timepiece into the brand’s SuperLigero Concept collection. The FVa35 SuperSonico 5 Minutes Repeater timepiece features a 5 minute repetition complication and a case made from DLC Blackened titanium and Lightnium, an aluminium-lithium based alloy used in state of the art aeronautical engineering. The case shape echoes the brands standard a Special “Esprit Unique ”shape with elliptic and circular bezel. The dial and case-back are protected by a sapphire crystal with double sided antiglare treatment.

The Supersonico is powered by the high grade mechanical self-Winding hand finished complicated movement Caliber FV35 and features the FRANC VILA exclusive “Gold Concept Rotor”. The movement allows for hours, minutes and seconds with a 5-minutes repeater and 42 hour power reserve. The superior case construction allows for a water resistance of up to 100 meters. The watch is secured to the wearer's wrist with a rubber sport strap with DLC Black DieHard Extreme Steel deployment buckle. A double sided crocodile leather strap with red stitching is also included. The DLC version is limited edition 88 pieces and has an expected retail of $44,000.

The New Roger Dubuis Excalibur Chronograph

Roger Dubuis has redesigned their popular Excalibur Chronograph watch, and while the changes are subtle the brands attempt to modernized the design seems to have been successful. The new model EX45-78-90-00/09R01/B has a round 45 milimeter stainless steel case with a now more deeply fluted bezel. The dial has a black background with white transferred Roman numerals. The black sub-dials are located at 3 and 9 o'clock and have white transferred Arabic numerals. The black bottom flange has yellow Arabic numerals while the black top flange has white minute-track transfers and white gold appliques. The watch is completed by a fully adjustable black hand-stitched genuine alligator strap with a steel adjustable folding buckle. This model will be limited to 280 production pieces.

The Excalibur Chronograph is powered by the RD78 automatic chronograph movement with micro-rotor in tungsten alloy. The movement is finely adjusted to five positions and features a double-pusher. The movement provides functions for hours and minutes located at the centre, chronograph hand located at the centre, semi-instantaneous 45-minute counter at 3 o'clock, and small seconds at 9 o'clock. The movement is comprised of 303 individual parts which includes 36 jewels and measures 13"'3/4 in diameter by 5.80 millimeters. The movement is adored with rhodium-plated decoration and allows for a 42 hours power reserve.

IWC Blue Big Pilot Limited Edition Watch

The IWC Schaffhausen brand has a new limited edition IWC Big Pilot watch for us to covet, and this time its blue! The Blue Big Pilot Limited Edition timepiece is a boutique piece which will be released in a limited series of just 50 watches to be available in a select few boutiques located in Beverly Hills, California and Las Vegas, Nevada. The watch is a duplicate of the currently available Big Pilots with the exception of the black and blue motif and the engraved case side in a non typical “One out of Fifty” pattern as opposed to the "1 of 50" count.

The "Big Blue" offers a round stainless steel case that measures 46.2 millimeters in diameter with a height of 15.8 millimeters and features a diamond-shaped winding crown. The excellent case construction accommodates an extra soft iron safety cage and solid stainless steel case-back for increased antimagnetic protection. The black dials indicators, numerals and steel hands are all crafted with a bright-blue Superluminova to guarantee supreme readability under pure light conditions. The dial displays hours, minutes and center seconds as well as a date a featured in white-on-black via a window at 6 o’clock and a power reserve indicator at 3 o’clock. The dial is protected by a scratch resistant sapphire crystal.

The IWC watch is animated by the brand’s Calibre 51111 automatic movement, the in-house movement features 42 jewels and operates at a frequency of 21,600 vibrations per hour. The movement allows for a 7-day power-reserve or 168 hours. The superb case construction allows for a 60-meter water-resistance. The timepiece is secured to the wearers wrist by a riveted black leather strap featuring blue stitching that compliments the color scheme used on the dial.

Baume & Mercier William Baume Jumping Hour Ref M0A08857

Baume & Mercier is set to release a new collection this fall, the William Baume collection watch will be released in commemoration of the company’s 180th anniversary. William Baume was a talented watchmaker and grandson of the brand’s founder, and his name will be used in a high-end collection with models featuring ultra-thin movements, retrograde seconds and jumping hours. The Jumping Hour watch is definitely one to take a closer look at as it an interesting function. The jumping hour works with the turning of each our, the hour numeral will jump ahead to the appropriate hour as opposed to the gradual sweep of a hand if it were a normal watch.

The William Baume Jumping Hour watch features a round-shaped case that is 41 millimeter in diameter by 9.6 millimeters high. The case and bezel are crafted from 18 carat red gold. It will be available in two color schemes - silver or black dials on the red gold case. These dials feature cross-weave guilloché motifs and sunburst satin-brushed finished sub-dials. The dial has Arabic numerals and red gold hands and is protected by a scratch resistant sapphire crystal. The Jumping Hour complication, which displays hours is in an exhibition window at the 12 o’clock position.

The timepiece is powered by the self-winding Dubois Depraz 14400 movement. The movement is viewable though the see-through case back which is protected by a scratch resistant sapphire crystal. The movement has been embellished with Cotes de Geneve motif. Limited to just 40 pieces in each color, the price is expected to be $19,900 USD and should be available in September 2010.

Panerai Luminor Marina PAM 366 “Fu” China 福

Officine Panerai has created a new limited edition Luminor Marina set to be launched in August at Officine Panerai boutiques in Shanghai and Beijing as well as selected authorized China dealers. A wider release is planned to include all Panerai boutiques in Greater China. The Panerai Luminor Marina PAM 366 “Fu” China celebrates the fifth year since the brand first entered the Chinese market and the great success the brand has experienced there. The special edition Panerai watch carries the Chinese sign for "Good Fortune" or "Fu" which can be found on the dial at 6 o'clock. The symbol is a time-honored Chinese character for good fortune or happiness which includes five aspects: longevity, prosperity, health, virtue and a well-ended life.

The PAM 366 has a 44 millimeter sculptured polished and brushed stainless steel case. The black dial has white luminous markers and displays hours and minutes as well as a small seconds hand at the 9 o'clock position. The Chinese character “Fu” is at the 6 o’clock position. The timepiece is powered by the brand’s exclusive hand-wound mechanical movement - OP II Calibre. The 17-jewel movement, which beats at 21,600 vibrations per hour and provides a 56-hour power-reserve. The movement guarantees precision of the COSC-certified chronometer. The superior case construction allows for a 300-meter water-resistant. The case is secured to the wearers wrist with a personalized black calf strap featuring ecru stitching and fitted with a polished steel buckle. The brand plans to create 1,500 pieces with a retail price of around $4,400.