Finest Watches Blog

Vacheron Constantin - Les Métiers d’Art “Les Masques”

nospam@example.com (Finest Watches) — Wed, 7 May 2008 23:27:34 -0500

The Les Masques watches from Vacheron Constantine are not traditional by any means, and perhaps even a far cry from what many have come to associate with the Vacheron brand. But this observation is not an insult to these new additions to the Métiers d’Art collection, in fact far from it. I find these watches to be visually refreshing and I marvel at the attention to detail taken while reproducing the masks. They are a unique accomplishment, melding of the best of design and function. And while some people will balk at the non-traditional use of masks on watches such as these, I find myself drawn to them. The only problem I foresee would be choosing which one to wear first, were I lucky enough to own them.

The Masque watches, released in 2007, are only the first four of the twelve to be created. When complete, the collection will consist of 3 sets, with one set released each of the three years. There will be four watches in each set, 25 pieces of each. Each of these twelve watches will have a different ancient mask on the dial. The four masks chosen for the first set are a Chinese death mask, a Congolese face mask, an Indonesian theatre mask and an Alaskan frontal mask. They are exact miniature reproductions of actual primitive art masks from the Barbier-Mueller Museum in Geneva. The miniatures were created by scanning the real masks to get a three-dimensional image. Then producing a prototype in gold that was given to an engraver who meticulously carved the masks to replicate the exact look of these ancient artifacts.

After the masks themselves are produced they are then incorporated into the watches. The way the masks are placed and the specially-treated glass makes them seem to be floating in space. Each mask is set on a sapphire dial that has been tinted in a complementary color. Each dial is engraved with an individual poem written by a famous a French writer named Michel Butor. The poems themselves are only visible at certain angles accomplished by engraving the underside of each crystal with the words of the poem before filling the engraving with gold. The placement of the hours, minutes, days and date in four separate dials is somewhat non-traditional in itself. The 40 mm cases are produced in white gold for the Alaskan mask, pink gold for the Indonesian mask, yellow gold for the Chinese mask, and platinum for the Congolese mask.

While the design of the Les Métiers d’Art “Les Masques” watches are unique, the movement used is the same cal. 2460 found in the Les Métiers d’Art “4 Saisons” unveiled for Vacheron Constantin's 250th anniversary which took place in 2005. They have a transparent caseback and are water resistant to 30 meters.

A Brief History of The Breguet Type XX

nospam@example.com (Finest Watches) — Sat, 3 May 2008 16:17:34 -0500

The name Breguet is indeed one of the most recognizable name in watchmaking. It has accomplished much in its long history as a brand, such as the invention of the tourbillon. The Breguet Type XX was first introduced in 1954, as a pilots watch produced for the French Airforce. Previously pilots had been carrying a pocket watch version of the chronograph, and now it had been produced in wristwatch form.

The Breguet name has made its mark in aviation in other ways than the design and production of watches for its pilots. The fifth generation descendant of the original Breguet watchmaker, Abbraham Louis Breguet, was Louis Breguet who used his technical genius to manfacture airplanes. He was one of the original founders of Air France. The Breguet XIX made history in 1922 when it made the first non-stop flight from Paris to New York in 37 hours.

The Breguet Type XX was originally equipped with a 30 minute recorder, a flyback function and a straight-line lever escapement. Today it has evolved to include a 30 minute and a 12 hour totalizer, and a graduated rotating bezel. Breguet has also expanded production to include a titanium version as well as the original stainless steel. In celebration of the 50th anniversary of the Type XX the Type XXI was introduced. The Type XX had a slightly smaller 39mm case while the Type XXI is 42mm. The Type XXI also includes a flyback minute totalizer and a 24 hour time display and a stunning 18k pink gold version is available.

A Brief History of the Audemars Piguet Royal Oak

nospam@example.com (Finest Watches) — Mon, 28 Apr 2008 18:18:57 -0500

Since the company's start in 1875 Audemars Piguet has stood among the best, with its early development of the 8-ligne minute repeater and its 1960's record breaking thin movement. But it is the Royal Oak that has become AP's most renowned watch. It was designed in 1972 by Gerald Genta, who's well-known skill has been used to create masterpieces for many other high end brands such as Patek Philippe, Omega, and IWC. The Royal Oak was a surprise success, carving out its niche as a luxury sports watch.

The Royal Oak got its name from three of Britain's Royal Navy's warships that sailed between 1802 and 1939. Its relationship to ships can be seen in the porthole shaped bezel, and its sporty design. In 1993 Audemars Piguet introduced the sturdier Royal Oak, the Offshore designed for the more extreme sports. The Offshore has raised the lines success to new levels. In 2003 the brand saw some of its greatest success when it sponsored the swiss racing yacht the Alinghi in the America's Cup race. Soon after AP released the Royal Oak City of Sails Chronograph to mark the success of Team Alinghi. Since then AP has also become involved in formula one racing and in 2004 honored juan pablo montoya with a limited edition piece followed in 2006 with a watch honoring Rueben Barrichello.

With the brands new success they have branched out in the world. Recently, several other limited edtion pieces have been created to honor the opening of boutique stores around the world, such as the Royal Oak Offshore Rue St-Honoré Limited Edition series of 100 . The Paris edition is a beautiful watch on a White Hornback crocodile strap with red, white and blue seams and stainless-steel AP folding clasp. The Royal Oak Offshore Ginza Limited Edition of 200 was created to celebrate the opening of the AP Boutique in the Ginza district of Tokyo, Japan.

Guide to Buying a Pre-owned Timepiece

nospam@example.com (Finest Watches) — Sun, 20 Apr 2008 19:04:58 -0500

If you are considering purchasing a pre-owned timepiece, it is important to follow a few simple steps to insure you are buying the best product possible. Knowing what to look for in a pre-owned piece could keep you from wasting your hard earned money on a malfunctioning or unusable wristwatch or even worse a replica!

Here are a few things to consider when shopping for a used watch:

Does the watch come with the original box and paper?
Having the original box and papers with the watch can add to the watches value and in turn will add to how much you will be paying for the watch. It is always best to look for timepieces with original box and papers. It will be easier for you to sell it should you choose later on, and it also lessens the risk that you will end up with a replica.

Does the seller provide a warranty for the watch?
While a pre-owned watch in most cases will not have a current manufacturer’s warranty, any good watch dealer should provide some kind of warranty on the pre-owned timepieces the sell. Pay close attention to the lengths and terms of the warranty, it is best to get a full-coverage warranty.

Is the watch guaranteed authentic?
The number of replicas being passed off as the real thing is enormous, especially online! Make sure that you have done your research on the watch dealer you plan to buy from. Do they guarantee the products they sell to be genuine? It is a good idea to check out the Better Business Bureau website and read up on the company before you purchase.

Has the watch been serviced recently?
Some pre-owned pieces are still relatively new, so this point may not be as important. But for older watches, find out if the watch has been serviced recently and what, if anything was done to the watch.

What is the condition of the watch?
A watches condition is rated using the following terminology:

New old stock - An older watch that has never been worn.
Mint - Worn but shows very little wear.
Near mint - Worn but shows some minor wear.
Excellent - Shows slight normal wear.
Very good - Shows normal wear.
Good/Average - Shows heavier than average wear.
Fair/Below Average - Some damage or other serious problems.

Anything less than excellent condition, unless it is a very rare or collectible piece, is not an ideal purchase choice. If you are interested in purchasing a watch despite some obvious flaws, there is much a good watchmaker can do to help restore a watch to its original condition. A scratched case can often be restored to near mint condition by having it professionally polished.

New 2008 Hublot Big Bang

nospam@example.com (Finest Watches) — Sun, 13 Apr 2008 15:11:56 -0500

Hublot has expanded its collection yet again this year by branching out its Big Bang collection to include some very colorful additions. Keeping the same design elements that make the Big Bang so recognizable, Hublot has added a bit of flash to its original design. The Big Bang Purple Carat, Blue Carat and Orange Carat are making their debuts in both 18k red gold and black ceramic versions.

The popularity of Hublot’s Big Bang has skyrocketed since it was first released in 2005. Each year the brand has expanded its production to include new materials such as tantalum and magnesium to augment their original design. The “Carat” furthers the evolution of the Big Bang by introducing a flashy new version, achieved by adding baguette shaped gemstones to the bezel and making their signature rubber strap in these new bright colors. Slightly smaller than the original Big Bang case diameter of 44.5mm, the “Carat” has 41mm case and a polished bezel set with topaz, amethysts or sapphires.

The 18k red gold or black ceramic case is 41mm and has a sunken polished bezel set with 48 gemstones (topaz, amethysts or sapphires) approximately 2.23 carats. It has a sapphire crystal with an interior anti-reflection treatment. The dial is white or black with satin finished gold-plated markers. Faceted, diamond polished hands with a white luminescent feature. It has a mechanical chronograph movement with automatic winding, Hublot HUB 41. It has a 42 hour power reserve and is water resistant to 100 meters.

Bell & Ross Phantom Tourbillon Release

nospam@example.com (Finest Watches) — Sat, 5 Apr 2008 16:54:43 -0500

Basel 2008 is the first chance the public had to view some exciting new releases from Bell & Ross. The new Phantom Tourbillon is a stunning watch that is the all black version of the BR 01 Tourbillon that was released by Bell & Ross in early 2007. The Phantom features an all black case and dial, with the most noticable feature being the silver tourbillon that sits above the 6 o'clock position.

The Phantom is a very limited production, with only 18 watches to be produced, far fewer than the 60 pieces made of the original BR 01 Tourbillon. The large 46mm case is made from a virtually scratch-proof DLC treated titanium. The dial is made from carbon fiber and the hands and indexes have been treated with a photo luminescent coating for easy readablility. In addition to the tournillon, the Phantom's complications include a regulator, a precision indicator and a power reserve indicator. It has a mechanical manual winding movement and is water proof to 100 meters.

Rolex Sea-Dweller Deepsea at Basel 2008

nospam@example.com (Finest Watches) — Thu, 3 Apr 2008 22:46:32 -0500

Rolex is releasing several watches at this year’s Baselworld, but perhaps the most impressive of all is the Sea-Dweller Deepsea. Like its name indicates, this watch is breaking boundaries in water resistance. With the development of a new Ringlock system, a new case architecture developed by Rolex, comes a watch capable of withstanding water pressure up to an astounding 3,900 meters.

The ability to withstand such extreme depth is made possible in part by a high performance ring made of nitrogen alloyed stainless steel. In addition the sapphire crystal on the Deepsea is substantially thicker than that of Rolex’s other Oyster models. The movement is a caliber 3135 and it has a 48 hour power reserve. An adjustable steel bracelet is equipped with a double extension system which is ideal for wearing over dive suits. Its new Glidelock clasp is adjustable up to 18mm by increments of 1.8mm.

Patek Unveils its Newest Creations at Basel 2008

nospam@example.com (Finest Watches) — Thu, 3 Apr 2008 18:56:15 -0500

5131J

The Patek Ref. 5131 is the next in the series of World Time watches released by Patek Philippe. The 5131, presented at Baselworld 2008, is only being produced in a single metal - 18k yellow gold. The new center dial features a map of the world made of cloisonné enamel, the product of an ancient metalworking technique. This new center dial is reminiscent of some of the early versions of the World Time such as The Europa.

The 18k yellow gold case is 39.5 in diameter and has a sapphire crystal case back. The watch features 24 time zones including Frankfurt, London, New York, Tokyo, Hong Kong, and Bangkok and has the ability to switch between them by pressing a single button at 10 o’clock. It has a mechanical self-winding movement and a 48 hour power reserve.

5070P

The highly sought Patek 5070 has a new addition to the family. 10 years after its launch, the new platinum version is now making its way on the scene and is sure to be one of the must have watches of the year. The technical and visual appeal of the 5070 are hard to beat, and the subtle changes made are sure to please. The new metal for this watch is accompanied by a new blue-metallic sunburst dial.

This watch features a chronograph with a 30-minute elapsed time counter. The platinum case is 42mm in diameter and it has a sapphire crystal case back. Its base movement, the “Nouvelle Lémania” is an exclusive execution to Patek Philippe.

Most Complicated Wristwatches Ever Made / Part 3

nospam@example.com (Finest Watches) — Sun, 30 Mar 2008 17:24:59 -0500

The most complicated wristwatch ever created by Patek Philippe is the Sky Moon Tourbillion reference 5002. Like Vacheron’s Tour de L'Ile it too is a double sided watch, the first of its kind for Patek Philippe. It was released by Patek in early 2001, shortly after the unveiling the Star Caliber 2000, rising to the challenge of producing such a masterpiece in wristwatch form.

These watches are extremely rare and sell for well over a million dollars. In 2007 Antiquorum sold a rose gold Sky Moon Tourbillion at auction for $1,240,400. The extreme difficulty of producing such a complicated watch had limited production to just 2 a year, one platinum and one rose gold. Recently production has been changed to include a white gold (5002G), and a yellow gold (5002J) model.

The 42.8mm case houses 686 parts working together to create 12 separate complications. On the fist side the dial contains a perpetual calendar with the leap year cycle at 12 o’clock, month at 3 o’clock, day at 9 o’clock and a retrograde center date hand. The phase of the moon is shown at 6 o’clock, and center hands show the hour and minute. The minute repeater chimes with two cathedral gongs. There is also a hidden tourbillion. The crown at 4 o’clock is for the setting of time and winding.

On the reverse side a beautiful blue dial displays a skychart and the phase and orbit of the moon. Sidereal time is shown with center hour and minute hands. A crown at 8 o’clock sets the 24 hour scale as well as the sky/moon indications.

Unlike many other watches that reach this level of complication, Patek Philippe is still producing a very limited amount of the 5002’s each year. At such a steep price it is a lucky few that are able to call one of these masterpiece their own.

Most Complicated Wristwatches Ever Made / Part 2

nospam@example.com (Finest Watches) — Sun, 30 Mar 2008 12:07:20 -0500

When it comes to the most complicated timepieces, the International Watch Company has created one of the most spectacular examples. Produced to be released on their 125^th anniversary in 1993, the IL Destriero Scafusia was the world’s most complicated wristwatch created to date.

IL Destriero Scafusia which means “The Warhorse of Schaffhausen,” was designed by a young watchmaker named Richard Habring. The Destriero was painstakingly created from 750 individual parts, and has a total of 21 complex functions and displays. This watch is limited to just 125 pieces and only about 10 per year were produced until 2003.

The 42.5mm case was made in either 22 carat rose gold or solid platinum. The elegantly hand engraved back was fitted with a see-through case back made from non-reflecting sapphire crystal. The movement created for this watch is the Caliber 1868-15.75 which not only has 750 parts, but also contains 76 jewels for the minimal amount of friction. The tourbillon alone contains 100 individual parts.

On the silver dial are four sub-dials, with three of the dials serving an alternate purpose. The moonphase dial which doubles as the 30 minute chronograph totalizer is at the 12 o’clock position. At 3 o’clock is the date, followed by the month and 12 hour chronograph totalizer at 6 o’clock. There is also four digit year display in between the seventh and eighth hour. The final sub-dial at the 9 o’clock position is for day and constant second. In addition to all of these functions there is an integrated flying tourbillion that can be seen on back of the watch.

Most Complicated Wristwatches Ever Made / Part 1

nospam@example.com (Finest Watches) — Sun, 23 Mar 2008 20:09:14 -0500

The watch to have most recently won its way onto this most prestigious of lists, was created in 2005 by Vacheron Constanin. A watch by the name of Tour de L'Ile, valued at a jaw-dropping $1,500,000, is the most complicated double-face wristwatch ever created boasting 834 parts and 16 complications. Completed the year of Vacheron’s 250th anniversary, the development of this timepiece took five years and more than 10,000 hours to create. With seven pieces created, and only six of those having been released to the public this watch is indeed one of the rarest and most sought after wristwatches ever created.

The caliber 2750 movement is unique to this watch, made up of 834 parts. An assembly this complicated can take up to 5 months to complete. In addition to hour, minute and second indicators this watch has 16 complications which have been divided between the watches two sides. The first side’s most prominent feature is the tourbillion, which has an oversized cage almost twice the size of any other feature. The tourbillion shines on a dial made of silvered 18k gold guilloche. Above and to the left of this is the power reserve which sits directly across from the moon-phase indicator. Finishing up the complications on this side are the second time zone and a smaller sub-dial which indicates the torque of the striking-mechanism.

The dial on the back of the watch contains functions laid out in almost perfect symmetry, crowned by a perpetual calendar whose features include day, date, month, and leap year indicators. In the center position is a dial dedicated to the equation of time. Below on either side are two astronomical indications for sunrise and sunset times. Finally, at the bottom of the dial is an extremely precise sky chart of the northern hemisphere.

The Tour de L'Ile is a breathtaking example of all that is fine in horology and I imagine will continue to inspire for as long as time continues to move forward. And though I believe it is just a matter of time before it has been outdone this watch has taken its place in history as one of the most complicated watches ever created.

Continue reading "Most Complicated Wristwatches Ever Made / Part 1"

Blog Launch Announcement

nospam@example.com (Finest Watches) — Sun, 23 Mar 2008 20:01:51 -0500

Finest Watches has launched its very own blog! With the aim of educating and informing its customers and collectors alike. From the watch connoisseur to the novice collector education is key to making smart purchase decisions. Over time we will share tricks of the trade and useful information from the most up to date sources as well as explore the best products and the best value from a variety of angles. Frequent posts are sure to keep you in the know, so check back often.